Pear 'Orient' Feeding Instructions
Fruits, being largely water and sugars, remove relatively few nutrients from the soil, compared to other crops. Therefore, much of the nutrients a fruit tree needs can be met through decomposition of mulch (if you mulch your trees), or by the application of lime and organic soil ammendments used when planting the tree. Supplementary fertilization may still be required for optimal growth and production. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can provide you with soil test or foliar analysis results to help in determining how much and what type of fertilization is needed. Foliar analysis actually works better. If you are serious about fruit production, it is best to have the soil or foliage tested at least every year or two.
Fertilizing Fruit Trees Organically
Most organic fertilization programs focus on supplementing nitrogen as the key element, since it is needed in the greatest amount by the fruit trees. If you have only a few few trees, and you want to fertilize them organically, buy a bottle of Fish Emulsion at your local nursery and garden center. You may also use granulated organic fertilizer, such as those that contain chicken manure. Apply organic fertilizer (at rate recommended on label) around the drip-line of the tree about 3 to 4 months prior to harvest date. If you make your own organic compost, simply use it as a mulch to allow the nutrients to seep down into the soil where they can be picked up by the root system.
Fertilizing Fruit Trees With A Commercial Fertilizer
To fertilize a fruit tree with a commercial fertilizer such as 10-10-10, toss a thin circle of pelletized fertilizer around the tree's "drip line," which is the part of the soil below the outer rim of leaves. Spread fertilizer after new growth has emerged in Spring. Spread 1 pound of 10-10-10 per inch of trunk diameter. Then work the fertilizer into the soil with a trowel, add a layer of organic compost, and mulch - making sure you keep the compost and mulch away from the base of the tree. In each subsequent year, make a split application: half at the end of April, remaining half at the end of May, using either: 10-10-10 at the rate of one pound per inch of trunk diameter (measured one foot from the ground up) to a maximum of 2 1/2 pounds 10-10-10 per year, or spread a 6" band of calcium nitrate within the dripline of branches, at a rate of 2/3 pound per 1" of trunk diameter and broadcast sulfate of potash-magnesia (sul-po-mag) at 1/2 pound per 1" trunk diameter.
Fertilizing A Newly Planted Fruit Tree
Use a weak solution of Fish Emulsion as a starter fertilizer or a pinch of bone meal may be added to the planting hole, but do not add commercial fertilizer.
Pear 'Orient' Pruning Instructions
The overall theory of pruning apple trees is to first train the young apple tree to grow efficiently, and then to promote the best production of good quality fruit as the tree matures.
When and How to Prune Apple and Pear Trees
After planting, and when the tree has grown some, or if you are maintaining a tree that has already been established, pruning will be done in late Winter.
The Central Leader Training/Pruning Method
Most apple trees grown by home gardeners are small-to-medium sized, and are best trained to the central-leader or pyramid system of pruning. The central-leader pruning method suits trees that have a dominant central trunk with lateral branches at regular intervals.This system trains the trees into a pyramidal shape to maximize vital sunlight exposure. With the central leader pruning method, more sunlight is allowed to reach inside the tree. Basically, you prune the upper branches to stay shorter than the lower branches. Wide spacing between the upper and lower branches is key here, and a good rule of thumb is to keep the branches about three feet apart on a mature tree.
Remove suckers from around the tree base, and spindly shoots and water sprouts from along the limbs. Make your pruning cuts nearly, but not completely, flush with the branch, leaving no stubs.
Then cut away all dead, broken, or diseased branches. Also cut out any wood that crosses over or crowds other branches.
Next, identify the central leader (the topmost vertical central branch) and prune other limbs that compete with it. Look the tree over and decide which branches you want to keep. Your goal is to keep more horizontal branches and less vertical branches.
Every Dormant Season - Maintain a pyramidal shape by leaving the lower scaffolds (main branches) longer. Continue to remove shoots that come out from the trunk below the lowest scaffolds as well as any shoots that develop higher on the trunk. Cut any upward-growing branches growing from the scaffolds and other large branches in the tree.
Later Years - To maintain a desired height and spread it will be necessary to prune every dormant season to restrict top growth. To do so, prune all of the lateral growing branches off of the central leader. Then head the central leader by one half of the previous years growth. As the tree grows it will be necessary to thin limbs to allow sunlight to penetrate throughout the tree. Branches that touch other branches, including those of other trees, should be cut. If the top tiers become overgrown with large branches remove them rather than prune large numbers of smaller branches below. Always make cuts as close as possible so as not to leave stubs sticking up or out.
Rejuvinating a Neglected Apple Tree - First thin undesirable interior branches that are diseased, broken, growing upward or downward from the scaffolds (main branches), or branches that cross or crowd other branches. To reduce tree height cut upward growing branches off at an outward growing branch that is nearly the same diameter and about the height that is desired for the tree. For severely overgrown trees that are much taller than desired, make no more than 3 or 4 of these cuts each year until the height is sufficiently reduced. Continue to thin remaining branches throughout the tree targeting weak growth and underhanging branches. Begin thinning by working from the periphery of the tree towards the trunk leaving some fruit bearing wood in the interior.
Tools You Might Need
Hand Saw / Pole Pruners/Saw / Hand Pruners or Lopping Pruners.
Pear 'Orient' Pest Instructions
Let's face it, fruit trees can experience problems with pest's and disease, though many insects that visit fruit trees will not cause serious damage or problems. Much of the problems with insects can be kept at a minimum by following some basioc guidelines for prevention.
Preventing Insect Pests and Disease In The Orchard
Here's some basic tips for controlling pest's and diseases on fruit trees:
1) Start by purchasing healthy, pest and disease-free fruit trees. Some fruit tree cultivars are resistant or partly resistant to diseases. This resistance is a result
of plant breeding. If you have the choice, investigate before planting which cultivars are available in your area.
Ensure good sanitation. Remove diseases plant debris and fruits from the plot. Many insects and fungus diseases breed in the ripe and fallen fruits. Removing old fruits from the field and keeping the area clean helps to keep the insect pests and diseases away.
Prune out diseased plant parts. Disease agents, especially fungi, remain in the bark of affected trees. By pruning and destroying these affected branches you avoid spreading fungus germs.
When using manures as fertilizer, make sure they are composted and well-rotted. Fresh manures attract insects and can carry diisease.
Plant certain annual and perennial plants to attract beneficial insects that will ward off or eat the bad insects. Sweet Allysum, Basil, Mint plants, and Yarrow are among a few that attract beneficial insects. Too, insects do not like the smell of marigolds and other plants containing pyrethrin. Hot chillies and garlic also have good insect repellent qualities. Bog Salvia is an excellent plant for repelling deer.
Watering and improving soil fertility increase the yield and reduce infestation by pests and diseases.
Hang pie tins to scare birds away. Nets are available for smaller trees and fruiting bushes such as blueberries.
Using Pesticides and Insecticides
If pests and diseases have already invaded or get out of control, you may have to use chemicals to stop the problem. In these instructions, we do not go into further detail. Please visit your local nursery and garden center or consult with your Local Extention Agent as to what current products are be available in your area, and how they should be properly applied. For sure, using chemicals should be a last resort. Make sure to follow the instructions on the bottles or packing material. Wear protective clothing and work carefully.