Peach 'Belle of Georgia' Feeding Instructions
Fruits, being largely water and sugars, remove relatively few nutrients from the soil, compared to other crops. Therefore, much of the nutrients a fruit tree needs can be met through decomposition of mulch (if you mulch your trees), or by the application of lime and organic soil ammendments used when planting the tree. Supplementary fertilization may still be required for optimal growth and production. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can provide you with soil test or foliar analysis results to help in determining how much and what type of fertilization is needed. Foliar analysis actually works better. If you are serious about fruit production, it is best to have the soil or foliage tested at least every year or two.
Fertilizing Fruit Trees Organically
Most organic fertilization programs focus on supplementing nitrogen as the key element, since it is needed in the greatest amount by the fruit trees. If you have only a few few trees, and you want to fertilize them organically, buy a bottle of Fish Emulsion at your local nursery and garden center. You may also use granulated organic fertilizer, such as those that contain chicken manure. Apply organic fertilizer (at rate recommended on label) around the drip-line of the tree about 3 to 4 months prior to harvest date. If you make your own organic compost, simply use it as a mulch to allow the nutrients to seep down into the soil where they can be picked up by the root system.
Fertilizing Fruit Trees With A Commercial Fertilizer
To fertilize a fruit tree with a commercial fertilizer such as 10-10-10, toss a thin circle of pelletized fertilizer around the tree's "drip line," which is the part of the soil below the outer rim of leaves. Spread fertilizer after new growth has emerged in Spring. Spread 1 pound of 10-10-10 per inch of trunk diameter. Then work the fertilizer into the soil with a trowel, add a layer of organic compost, and mulch - making sure you keep the compost and mulch away from the base of the tree. In each subsequent year, make a split application: half at the end of April, remaining half at the end of May, using either: 10-10-10 at the rate of one pound per inch of trunk diameter (measured one foot from the ground up) to a maximum of 2 1/2 pounds 10-10-10 per year, or spread a 6" band of calcium nitrate within the dripline of branches, at a rate of 2/3 pound per 1" of trunk diameter and broadcast sulfate of potash-magnesia (sul-po-mag) at 1/2 pound per 1" trunk diameter.
Fertilizing A Newly Planted Fruit Tree
Use a weak solution of Fish Emulsion as a starter fertilizer or a pinch of bone meal may be added to the planting hole, but do not add commercial fertilizer.
Peach 'Belle of Georgia' Pruning Instructions
To produce healthy fruit, peach and nectarine trees will require yearly pruning. The Vase Training Method method produces a vase-shaped tree consisting of 3 or 4 scaffolds (main branches) of equal lengths and no central leader (vertical growing top central branch).
When To Prune Peach and NectarineTrees
Keeping things simple, prune trees in late Winter, when the trees are still in dormancy. At this time it will be easier to detect branches and buds that have been damaged by cold weather. If a flower bud looks as though it has been winter-killed, cut it off. Also cut off winter-killed limbs that are wrinkled.
How To Prune Peach and Nectarine Trees Using The Vase Shaped Method
Newly Planted Young Peach or Nectarine Trees - Small trees, particularly those purchased in bare root form usually have no side branches and should be headed/topped at 24 to 30 inches above ground. The scaffold branches (main branches) will develop within 4 to 6 inches below the cut. Larger trees, called "branched whips" may come with a few side branches that are weak. These side branches should be pruned back to 2 or 3 buds remaining along the branch. Shoots often develop from these stubs and may be suitable for major scaffold limbs. Container-grown, 2-year old trees may have strong branches with wide crotch angles. These branches should be pruned back to 6 or 7 buds and can be retained for scaffold branches. The height at which branched trees are headed depends on the size of the tree and positions of good side branches.
Established Peach or Nectarine Trees - Start by removing flower bud that look as though they have been winter-killed. Cut off winter-killed limbs that look wrinkled.
Second Dormant Season - In the second dormant season cut back upward-growing branches near the center of the tree to short stubs. The small clusters of growth that develop from these stubs help to keep the center open for the next few months. If the 3 or 4 primary scaffolds (main branches) have not yet been selected, make this selection now. Remove any growth that has developed below the primary scaffolds (main selected branches) and any shoots that arise from the scaffolds within 6 inches of the trunk. In mid-Spring cut back the clusters of growth that emerged from the stubs and remove any shoots growing on the trunk below the scaffold.
Third Dormant Season - By this time the 3 or 4 primary scaffolds will have been chosen and all of the competing branches removed as shown in the diagram above. During dormancy eliminate branches with narrow-angled crotches or limbs. Remove any stubby center shoots. At the end of this season the form of the tree should be clearly recognizable. Peach and Nectarine trees bear fruit on one year old wood and require heavy pruning to stimulate new growth.
If all this sounds like too much, contract your local arborist to do the pruning for you.
Peach 'Belle of Georgia' Pest Instructions
Let's face it, fruit trees can experience problems with pest's and disease, though many insects that visit fruit trees will not cause serious damage or problems. Much of the problems with insects can be kept at a minimum by following some basioc guidelines for prevention.
Preventing Insect Pests and Disease In The Orchard
Here's some basic tips for controlling pest's and diseases on fruit trees:
1) Start by purchasing healthy, pest and disease-free fruit trees. Some fruit tree cultivars are resistant or partly resistant to diseases. This resistance is a result
of plant breeding. If you have the choice, investigate before planting which cultivars are available in your area.
Ensure good sanitation. Remove diseases plant debris and fruits from the plot. Many insects and fungus diseases breed in the ripe and fallen fruits. Removing old fruits from the field and keeping the area clean helps to keep the insect pests and diseases away.
Prune out diseased plant parts. Disease agents, especially fungi, remain in the bark of affected trees. By pruning and destroying these affected branches you avoid spreading fungus germs.
When using manures as fertilizer, make sure they are composted and well-rotted. Fresh manures attract insects and can carry diisease.
Plant certain annual and perennial plants to attract beneficial insects that will ward off or eat the bad insects. Sweet Allysum, Basil, Mint plants, and Yarrow are among a few that attract beneficial insects. Too, insects do not like the smell of marigolds and other plants containing pyrethrin. Hot chillies and garlic also have good insect repellent qualities. Bog Salvia is an excellent plant for repelling deer.
Watering and improving soil fertility increase the yield and reduce infestation by pests and diseases.
Hang pie tins to scare birds away. Nets are available for smaller trees and fruiting bushes such as blueberries.
Using Pesticides and Insecticides
If pests and diseases have already invaded or get out of control, you may have to use chemicals to stop the problem. In these instructions, we do not go into further detail. Please visit your local nursery and garden center or consult with your Local Extention Agent as to what current products are be available in your area, and how they should be properly applied. For sure, using chemicals should be a last resort. Make sure to follow the instructions on the bottles or packing material. Wear protective clothing and work carefully.