How To Plant A Lawn With Seed
Seeding a lawn is the least expensive planting option. Seeding requires less work than sodding, but it will require a little more patience and care to become established.
Not all types of lawn grass can be planted by seed. Hybrid Bermuda, Zoysia and St. Augustine grasses can only be planted by laying field-grown sod that has been cut from a sod farm. These hybrids do not produce a seed that will germinate when planted, and as is usual, these hybrids come at a higher cost. However, as with Fescue grass, there are several "turf-type" seed varieties that have the same density and rich color of the hybrids, and therefore are suitable for lawn turf use in residential and commercial landscapes.
The Two Basic Types of Lawn Grass
When it comes to lawn grasses, there are two basic types: "warm season" grasses, such as Bermuda, Centipede, Zoysia and St. Augustine, which thrive and are green during the warmer months of the year, but go dormant during the Winter, and "cool season" lawn grasses such as Fescue and Bluegrass, which thrive during the cooler seasons, but slow down their growth and may thin out during the heat of Summer.
When To Seed A Lawn
Cool season lawns, such as Fescue and Bluegrass, are best seeded from early to mid-Fall, or in early Spring. This will allow your new turf to establish roots before Winter, or during Spring before Summer heat arrives.
Warm season lawns, such as Bermuda and Centipede should be seeded from late Spring through late Summer, when soil temperatures are warm enough (above 68 degrees F) to promote germination of the seeds, and given time enough to establish themselves before Winter arrives.
Decisions, Decisions
Planting a new lawn from scratch, and doing it right, can be a big job - especially if it's a big lawn. If the area of your new lawn will be over 5,000 square feet (100' x 50') you may need to tackle the planting in sections, or rent large equipment to plant the entire area at once. You might want to consider getting several competitive bids from local professional landscape contractors who have the experience and equipment to do even large lawn seeding jobs in a relatively short period of time. Always get several references from landscapers, and never pay for the entire job up front.
Getting Started
If necessary, you'll need to start by removing old turf and weeds. Weeds can be sprayed with an herbicide, or removed with mechanical eqipment. if you go the herbicide route, select an herbicide that degrades quickly (does not last long in the environment), such as glysophate (Roundup or Killzall). Mix according to the manufacturer's directions, and completely cover all grass plants and weeds with the solution. Work on a windless day, when the temperature is above 60 degrees F, and take care not to overspray on desirable plants in areas nearby - especially if they are your neighbors plants! Glysophate is a potent, nonselective herbicide that will kill or severely injure all foliage it touches. Wear clothing that covers your skin completely, as well as eye protection, when applying large amounts of any chemical over large areas. Afterwards, take a shower and wash clothing separately.
You may find that it takes several applications of glyphosate to get the job done - particularly if you are trying to eleminate common bermuda. If the turf has not completely died after 2 weeks, reapply the herbicide and wait 7 days after the last application before tilling the dead turf into your soil. Take care to follow the manufacturer's safety precautions.
If you will be removing a thick, sod-type grass, consider renting a sod cutter from your local rental store.
Fixing Grade and Drainage Problems
Before planting a new lawn any drainage problems should be identified and corrected. If you know that there are serious drainage problems, hiring a professional grading contractor to correct the problem is heavily recommended. Professional graders will use a laser transit to ensure proper drainage. Too, you can tell the grader to pile up top soil removed from any surface areas for later use when finish grading
If you have a smaller lawn area, and will be doing the job yourself, fix any existing grade problems before adding ammendments. Although grading often requires help from a landscaping contractor with heavy equipment, minor problems can be fixed by the ambitious do-it-yourselfer. Small versions of earth-moving equipment are often available for rent.
The first rule of grading is that the ground should slope away from your house in all directions so that it drops at least 2 or 3 inches for every ten feet. Sometimes this is not possible to achieve, so just make sure that the grade slopes away from your house. The finished grade should also end up matching the level of existing fixtures, such as permanent walks and patios, as well as areas of lawn that are not being replanted. This takes some figuring. If you will be replanting with seed and adding one inch of amendments, grade so that the level is one inch lower than fixtures.
When grading, first focus on any problem areas; low and high spots. Make adjustments by scraping away high areas and filling in low areas. Keep a pile of good topsoil around to spread over any areas where sub-soil has been exposed. Spread two inches of the reserved topsoil over the subsoil, and till in to a depth of two inches. This will help prevent drainage problems between the two layers of soil.
The maximum slope in a lawn should be 12 inches for every 4 feet. If the drop is greater than 12 inches, you should plan to build a low retaining wall or cover the slope with a hardy ground cover or low-growing shrubs.
Ammending Poor Soil
If your soil is hard-packed, non-porous and of poor quality, tilling in 2 to 4 inches of a screened native top soil to a depth of at least 6 inches is recommended for peak performance. And remember, once the job is done, it's done - and your poor soil will have been conditioned for a lifetime. If you need to add topsoil, buy a screened topsoil that's free of debris, such as roots or stones. A landscaping rake (hard rake) is the best tool for working soil to the proper grade if you're doing it yourself.
If you're lucky, the soil in your yard will be porous and of good planting quality. If so, there will be no need to add or till in native screened topsoil, or soil conditioners.
Either way, tilling in a layer of compost, such as composted cow manure or Mushroom Compost, at a rate of 3 to 4 cubic yards per 1,000 square feet is also recommended. For large lawns, the cost of adding these ammendments could be quite hefty. At a minimum, broadcast a pelletized chicken manure product, or Milorganite over the area at a rate of 50 pounds per 2,500 square feet to add beneficial organic matter.
Broadcast pelletized lime over the entire area at a minimum of 40 pounds per 1,000 square feet. NOTE: Centipede lawns do not require lime.
Ensure even application of amendments by dividing the recommended amounts in half and applying half while walking in one direction and the other half while walking in a perpendicular (opposite) direction. Once you have applied the amendments, till them into the top 6 inches of soil.
Till in top soil and any other ammendments.
Rake Smooth and Firm
Rake the area to be replanted until it's smooth. Remove any stones larger than a 1/2 inch in size and vegetative matter brought to the surface during tilling.
Whether you're planting seed or sod, it's helpful to roll the prepared soil to provide a firmer base on which to work and to foster adequate soil structure. For example, seed planted in soil that is too loose generally ends up being planted too deeply. The tiny plants may die before they reach the surface. Fill a lawn roller about 1/3 full of water for this job, and roll the soil until your footprints are no deeper than 1/2 inch.
Broadcast Fertilizer and Seed
Broadcast a good "starter fertilizer" over the entire soil bed at rates recommended on the bag. If you applied composted cow manure or Milorganite, a starter fertilizer will not be necessary.
Then broadcast the best seed you can afford at the rate recommended by the seed packager, usually given in pounds per 1,000 square feet. Consult with a professional at your local independent nursery and garden center to determine what type of grass seed might be best for the conditions at your property. Use a shoulder-type or rotary walk behind spreader to broadcast seed. Refer to the seed rate chart below for typical spreading rates:
- Bermuda Seed (Turf-Type) - Broadcast 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet
- *Centipede Seed - Broadcast 1 to 2 pounds per 4,000 square feet
- Fescue Seed (Turf-Type) - Broadcast 6-8 pounds per 1,000 sq ft
* When planting a Centipede lawn from scratch, blending the Centipede seed with Bermuda or Fescue is recommended. Blend 1 pound of Centipede seed with 4 pounds of Bermuda and broadcasting with a hand-held spreader over a 4,000 square feet area. The reason for blending Centipede with other grasses is to allow two seasons for the centipede to fully establish itself. You could end up with lots of bare dirt space if you don't blend. Eventually, Centipede will choke out the other grasses, and any weeds too!
To ensure even distribution and coverage, when broadcasting grass seed make two passes, first in one direction and then in a perpendicular (opposite) direction. If you don't want to purchase a hand-held spreader (cost about $10-15) for spreading smaller grass seeds such as Bermuda and Centipede, and would rather use your walk-behind or larger rotary spreader, bulk up seed with dry sand. Fescue seed can be spread with a walk behind or shoulder-type rotary spreader, no sand added.
Follow up with a light raking to work the seed into the top 1/8 inch of soil; a light rolling with an empty roller will ensure good seed contact with the soil.
Mulching
Finally, cover the seeded area with a light coat of wheat straw or hay to help retain needed moisture and reduce erosion. A thicker coat of straw may be necessary on inclines.
Seeding sloped areas is difficult because the seed tends to run to low points when it rains. One solution is to contract with a hydroseeding contractor. Hydroseeding involves spraying a suspension of fertilizer, mulch, and water onto the prepared surface. Make sure that the contractor uses the specific type of seed that you want planted.
Watering Your Freshly Seeded Lawn
In the absence of rain, apply frequent light waterings to seeded surfaces to keep them from drying out. Be careful not to water so much that it causes run off. Doing so can cause seed to wash. When seed has germinated you can go back to a regular watering cycle.
A month or so after having seeded your new lawn, have your soil tested to measure pH and determine nutrient needs. Use the results of this test to apply sufficient amounts of lime and/or nutients if needed.
Now, sit back for a while and watch the grass grow until it needs mowing.
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SEE ALSO:
Fertilization Instructions For Lawn Turf Grasses
Lawn Mowing Instructions
Insect Control In Lawn Turf Grasses.
Disease Control In Lawn Turf Grasses.
Weed Control In Lawns