Espalier has a great deal of ornamental value - few garden scenes are more stunning than a blooming apple tree growing against a brick wall - but it's also an effective technique for producing an ample crop of fruit in a small space. You don't need an orchard to grow apple trees. A sunny wall, a special pruning technique and patience are all you need to espalier an apple tree.

To encourage substantial fruit production, prune with two objectives in mind. First, train the tree to the classic flattened, horizontal shape of espalier. Second, encourage the growth of short fruiting stems, or spurs, that will ultimately produce apples.

Start with a tree that has been grafted onto dwarf rootstock. All commercial apple trees are grafted onto roots from selected hardy apple trees. Some rootstock is dwarfing and will produce small trees. Other rootstock produces full-size trees. If you espalier a full-size tree, it will have much thicker, heavier trunks and branches. If you don't find dwarf fruit trees at your local nursery and garden center, you may have to order them from an online mail-order nursery.

You will begin with a 2 to 3 foot sapling, or whip, that is still very pliable and has not yet grown any side branches. It can be planted against a wall or a fence or sturdy trellis. The wall will have an added advantage of absorbing heat to hasten ripening.

Keep in mind that to train an apple tree as an espalier it takes time, and that means patience. But you won't spend but a fraction of the time as some do on a bonsai!

The following steps will get you on your way to creating an apple-bearing espalier:

1. String three to four rows of galvanized wire horizontally on the wall or trellis, about 2 feet apart.
2. Plant the 3-4 foot tall fruit tree (whip) in the middle of the structure.
3. Find the lowest bud on the whip and prune off all the wood above it. That bud should be about 2 feet from the base of the tree (whip) and coincide with the lowest wire. Lateral branches will begin to grow out and away from the cut.
4. Tie one end of a bamboo cane to the first horizontal wire and the other end to the first young branch that grows out from where your cut was made. Pull the branch down toward the wire - training it to grow along the wire. It usually takes two growing seasons to get branches to grow at right angles to the main vertical trunk.
5. In the meantime, the whip will continue to grow upward from the original bud you located when you made the first cut. Let it grow to the second horizontal wire and again make a cut above a bud. When lateral branches grow from that point, repeat the process of attaching them to the horizontal wires.

A typical espalier is 6 to 8 feet tall, with three to four sets of horizontal branches. Your goal is to keep the tree in bounds. Fruit yields will be proportionately much greater from an espalier than from a full-size tree as their won't be nearly as many branches to use up all the trees energy.

It generally takes five to seven years to create a completed espalier structure and harvest fruit. Until that time, prune out any developing fruit. Your goal in the first few years is to encourage the tree to put all of its energy into growing branches that establish the basic framework. Once that happens, all future pruning is to encourage fruit production.

Apples on all trees, whether espalier or not, are borne on short stems called spurs. As buds and new shoots form along a lateral branch, prune them back to a point close to the branch where five leaves cluster around the stem. This encourages the buds on the bottom half of the lateral branch to produce fruit. This pruning will also remove the end buds that are more likely to produce leaves and stems.

SEE:

Growing Fruit

SEE ALSO:

Suggested Espalier Plants

Espalier Techniques

How To Plant Espalier

Training And Pruning Espalier

Espalier An Apple Tree

Espalier Camellia